About My Trip

Once I decided to actually make the trip, planning and actual preparation began in full-swing in Spring, 2019. I chose to leave in the Fall because the rainy season in Central America ends in October.

Mentally, I can break the planning and preparation down into these four categories below.

I - Safety, Security, and Navigation

It wouldn't be wise to go into too much detail about the steps I’ve taken to protect myself physically, financially, and digitally. But I tried to imagine reasonable (and some far-fetched) situations that I could find myself in, and devise and test ways of dealing with them. If someone has specific questions, please reach out to me.

For example, what if my wallet was stolen? Or my cell phone? Or both?  If my cell phone was stolen, how would I access my email and bank accounts despite having 2 factor authentication in place?  How would I use my US number for 2FA without roaming?  I devised various alternate means to get around 2FA, and I tested them multiple times on borrowed phones and desktops.

After crossing into Guatemala from Mexico, I obtained a Claro SIM for about $30 including 10GB of data for one month.  The Guatemalan Claro system allows roaming throughout Central America, even though each country has its own local Claro system. The Motorola Android I purchased on Amazon was specifically an “International” version, but my unlocked iPhone 8 works fine with Central American SIMs.  I like Claro for 2 reasons (1) it allows you to run a hotspot on your phone, and it comes with ClaroMusica, which allows you to stream music, BBC, NPR, etc. without counting against your data.  It's actually a pretty rich app.

I also obtained travel insurance through Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection which provides health and medevac insurance. Since I didn’t need to make any airline and resort reservations for my trip, BHTP travel insurance was quite reasonable ($93).

Before leaving, I received vaccines for Yellow Fever, Typhoid, bacterial meningitis, pneumonia (Prevnar) and Hepatitis A.  I have already had the Hepatitis B series, good for life.  To prevent Dengue, I carry DEET 25% spray, and doxycycline for malaria.

I consult paper maps, and I cross-check them with the routes that Google Maps comes up with, which I use for real-time driving. Google Maps now has an offline feature, so I pre-downloaded maps so I don’t need a data connection on the road.

Suffice it to say I spent a lot of time testing and practicing ways to deal with having to walk into an internet cafe (or hospital) with only the shirt on my back, and no money, ID, or phone. Being an ex tech nerd, I actually enjoyed gaming out these scenarios, and potential responses to them.

II - Visa and legal requirements for each country

This was the least fun and most tedious part of the planning process.

What is the procedure and documentation for entering and leaving each country?  Where, when, and how do I buy auto insurance for each country? What are each country’s requirement and restrictions for a Temporary Import Permit (TIP)

I brought multiple copies of everything (passport, driver’s license, birth certificate, car title, registration, insurance, medical insurance, bank statements, etc). Most countries require (though it’s seldom enforced) an International Driver’s License, which I obtained from my local AAA office. AAA is the exclusive issuer in the US, under contract with the US Government.

An American woman I met in Mexico City early on told me that tramitadores (aka tramadores) are almost a necessity.  These are people who hang out at the border, pretend to be official, and try to walk you through the customs and immigration process, in exchange for a "tip".  The use scare tactics ("let me take you under my wing because there are no ATMs, the Honduran police will throw you in jail just for not wearing your seatbelt at the border" etc) . But I took the advice of WikiOverland and ignored them.  My advice is to have multiple copies of your documents, and always go to Immigration first, then Customs.  The government officials I encountered at border crossings were honest, professional and helpful, and will guide you through the process.  Of course all this assumes you have a basic understanding of Spanish.

Fortunately, only one country on my list, Bolivia, requires a visa for U.S. Citizens.  NOTE:  As of December 20, 2019, visa requirements for U.S. Citizens entering Bolivia were dropped.

III - Mechanical Issues

My vehicle, a 2015 Toyota Tacoma 4WD only has 50k miles, and it’s pretty stout on rough roads, so it’s hard to plan for any mechanical issues. I can’t very well bring along a spare rear axle or muffler.

Just before leaving home I changed the oil with extended range synthetic oil and filter (Mobil-1 EP oil and filter, rated for 15k and 20k miles respectively).  For perspective, it is about 8,500 miles driving one way from Colorado to Buenos Aires, Argentina.  So I could almost make it there and back without changing the oil - not that I would try it.  I ended up bringing a 5 qt jug and changed the oil in Panama City, and greased the u-joints.

I carry an extra oil filter, fan belt, wiper blades, tools, fuel injector cleaners.  I set out with a fresh battery, gear oil, engine and cabin air filter.

IV - Actual trip planning

This is the meat of it, of course – what I want to see along the way. I am more interested in seeing natural attractions and ancient Mayan ruins than I was in seeing 16th century Spanish churches and art museums. That’s just me. I also thought that going to tropical beaches would be a change of scenery from Colorado, though the latter is beautiful in its own right.

I also researched specific safety concerns and State Department Travel Advisories. That’s not to say I heeded them…

Since I am driving, I need to be aware of the and quality of frequency of gasoline on the route. I don’t let the tank get below 1/2.  Google Maps will let you search along the route for upcoming gas.  I haven't encountered any long stretches without gas in Central America. If you don't make any stops or detours, you can theoretically drive through 2 or 3 CA countries without needing gas.

The night before, I always open the pages on my phone of promising hotels along my route.  Sometimes I make a reservation in advance, but usually not.  I also identified and communicated with various maritime shipping agents in Panama and Colombia so that the shipping process would go smoothly.